Ilocos Adventures Part 1: Mom's Return and Being Touched by a Ghost!

Sauna Bus Ride:

It was literally a 12 hour bus ride from Manila to Sinait, Ilocos Sur. We left at 8am and arrived at 8:30pm. I am never EVER taking the morning trip again. The bus stopped so many times and the afternoon heat penetrated the windows leaving most of the passengers sweating buckets. It literally felt like a sauna. My face was plastered to the air-condition vent from noon till 5pm. When I got off the bus, I was definitely not a pretty sight to behold.

To top off the heat, we were also stuck in traffic because most Filipinos in the city were clamoring to get out with us to enjoy the Holy Week break and there were also numerous processions occurring on the side of the road that re-enacted Jesus' final moments. I guess it was wrong to have gone during Holy Week but Cebu Pacific airline tickets were too expensive and it was the only time I could get time off from work.

Regardless, we arrived safely.

Grandma's House:

My grandma's house has a nice big porch that overlooks the front lawn. It's big enough to seat at least ten to fifteen people and that was where my mom had received and entertained visitors and friends, from long ago, during the weekend we were there. People came, literally every hour, just to see her. I was surprised people weren't getting a number to wait for their turn.

The following day we went to the nearby wet market to buy fresh fish and vegetables. It was scorching hot, but my mom wanted to be fancy and wear her nice dress and cute hand bag. People from her past stopped her to hug and kiss her. She was sweating a lot and I could tell she wanted to get out of the heat. Regardless, she continued on--entertaining old classmates, neighbors, and distant relatives who bumped into her in the market and were surprised she was back in town.
The whole weekend was a celebration of her return, which consisted of the most amazing food and a weekend of karaoke.

Grandpa's Eldest Sister:

On Friday afternoon we visted my grandpa's eldest sister. She's blind, paralyzed, has no teeth, and is bed-ridden. She almost died three times, but for some reason she survived and outlived her parents and siblings. My mom sat on the floor next to her, stroked her head, and said "I'm here now auntie". Then all of a sudden, I heard her whisper my mom's name, "Rosie." My mom cried and I got teary as she stroked her hair and talked to her, grateful to see her once again. Most of my lola's and lolo's siblings passed away. To have one remaining is a rarity. For me to meet her was a blessing.

A Ghost Touched me:

On Saturday, after visiting Badoc to book our bus tickets to Manila, I was overcome with nausea and dizziness. I didn't know why or how I got sick. I realized it couldn't be the food because no one else got sick. I realized it couldn't have been due to car sick because car sickness does not last for 4-5 hours. I literally slept in bed for an hour and woke up to the most debilitating nausea I had ever experienced in my life. My grandma came to me, felt my arms and legs, my aunt came to me too and felt my ears and neck. I was clammy and cold even though I felt so hot. I reached over to my mom and asked if someone had put a curse on me (apparently superstitious stuff like that happens there). She said no, but my grandma and aunt thought my nausea was due to my dead uncle being near me or touching me.

As a solution to alleviate my vomiting and nausea, my lola gently rubbed mallungay leaves on me. Then they took some leaves, also known as Attis (sp?), and made me sniff it constantly for 30 minutes. The leaves smelt like Vick's. Then my grandma mixed a teaspoon of gasoline with salt and rubbed it, like ointment, onto my legs and forehead.

After an hour I vomited the remaining food I had in my stomach and slept for a half hour. When I woke up I felt fine, like nothing had happened. Weird but true.

Mother-Daughter Bonding:

At the end of the day, after the exhausting introductions to her best friends, close cousins, and her aunts and uncles that took care of her when she was younger, I sat on the porch with her. My legs were up on her lap and as she stroke my feet, she told me stories about her teenage days growing up in Sinait and how all the boys followed her around like love sick puppies. She told me stories about her best friends and the mischief they got themselves into and what they would try to gossip about when my lola wasn't around. She told me stories about how she use to sell kerosene, fish, vegetables in the market from morning to night. She told me stories about her first love and how she broke his heart. I caught a glimpse of her childhood: the hardships, pains, and joys she faced. Moreover, I was astounded by the immense sacrifice she made for her family at such a young age.

It was indeed a beautiful moment. Something I wouldn't have been able to share with her if she had not made the decision to visit me.

MESA

Last night I had dinner at MESA: FILIPINO MODERNE. I think the food was better than Sentro but nothing can top Abe ;)

We ordered the Laing and Bistek Bangus Belly (In honor of Holy Week, meat free diet)

Laing (a well-known dish from Bicol) is made up of taro leaves, garlic, ginger, lemon grass, chili pepers, and dried fish (can include pork) was made two ways, with coconut milk and without coconut milk. The dish can be salty so mid-way through the meal I realized I had consumed a lot of rice and water. I could not even make it to the bangus without feeling full.

The Bangus, also known as milk fish, was prepared differently from what I was use to. As a kid, my mom would simply deep fry it. In this instance, however, the bangus was cooked in a sauce that tasted like a popular Filipino meat dish called called bistek, or as Americans like to call it "Beef Steak", which is sirloin beef slow cooked in soy sauce and calamansi juice. Except in this instance the dish was more on the sweet than salty side, which made for a good complimentary meal.

Top the dinner off with a sweet mango shake for dessert :D yay!

Nothing like a good dose of Filipino food to end the day.

Pinoys' Obsession Over Squid Balls and Other Deep Fried Goodness

No, not Balls as in testicles. I meant Squid Balls! Just think of mashing canned Tuna into small balls and then deepfrying it in yummy-high-cholesterol goodness.

Street vendors, food court vendors, and grocery stores sell these little balls on a stick either ready to eat or frozen. All you have to do is heat up a pan of oil, dump them in, and add a bit of hot "sawse" to the mix. For only 10 pesos a stick (4 sticks to a DOLLAR! Ay Sus!) you can enjoy these yummy delights with an ice cold soda in a plastic bag for another 10 pesos.

After work, I frequently stop at one of the following food stalls (whichever one has a smaller line) in the nearby mall to get a small snack "merienda" before heading home.

Needless to say, the signs are catchy. As for the balls, they are indeed yummy. My personal favorite is happy balls because they have different sauces to try out. The other two places allow double dipping, which is so disgusting (I just realized how many sexual innuendos are in this sentence, no pun intended). The thought of other random people taking a bite of their squid balls then dipping it into the sauce, a second or third time, makes me want to gag.

Aside from my love for deep-fried squid balls, banana que is also another favorite of mine. The bananas are drenched in brown sugar, deep fried, then drenched in brown sugar again. For eight pesos my stomach and taste buds sing while my teeth clench to fight off the cavity inducing snack.

Yes, in the Philippines anything can be deep fried. Bananas, squid balls, fish balls, tiny shrimp, cheese, hotdogs, dim sum, dumplings. For only pennies, locals give you a feast of deepfried goodness and you are one step closer to a possible heart attack.

But...when in Rome, do as the Romans do. :D

The Ease to OVEReat

One of the biggest vices I’ve experienced while being here is overeating! Everything is cheap and in small portions that my American appetite craves for more. Maybe I am just a beast in general, as my friend Nina likes to say. However, even I recognize the benefits of living in a developing country, particularly when it comes to dining out. Food is so affordable, especially for anyone with dollars in their pockets. 

Mang Inasal is a perfect example of cheap dining. The price of a large piece of chicken breast (bbq’d to perfection) and unlimited rice is ONLY 90 php (roughly $2). When I came to the Philippines in July, the bright green “Mang Inasal” was like a call from heaven. After paying ten bucks or more for meals in D.C., I welcomed the cheap and yummy eats the Philippines had to offer. At the cost of my figure, I indulged like crazy the first couple months until I realized the obese trap I was getting myself into. 

After living here for almost half a year, it is still difficult to eat in moderation. Nowadays, I look forward to moving back to the states so I can be more cautious of the money I’m spending on food (e.g. Safeway groceries, Wisey’s sandwiches, and Panda Express lunches) and make an effort to limit my food intake in fear of being broke after one meal.

Finding Pride in the Philippines' Poor

Punishing the Urban Poor

(courtesy of UPA)

This recent op-ed article (see above link) caught my attention. The article describes the recent tragedy many urban poor families had to face when the government demolished their homes. Those most affected by the forced evictions were none other than women. They were seen clutching their Santo Nino and praying for some form of miracle while the police mercilessly clubbed and water cannoned them. Finally, when they were overwhelmed and the human barricade finally collapsed from exhaustion, police officials made a move to knock down 100 shanties and, as a result, dislocated 243 families.


It is International Women's Day today, and it is  disappointing to see the Philippines government's failure to uphold the legal rights of women, especially those who live below the poverty line.

"The people now sleep in the rubble. There is nowhere else to go. They ate together the night of the eviction, red eggs and noodles and rice from the parish. Children play on the back hoe and women cry quietly. Two weeks ago the women asked, “How can they beat us? We’re old enough to be their grandmothers?” They now ask, “How can they leave us homeless with our children?”

The non-profit organization Urban Poor Associates,  mediated the conflict as it attempted to defended thousands of families from forced evictions and relocations. Their involvement is nothing short of heroic and something I aspire to reach someday.

The recent action of the Philippines government to ILLEGALLY evict thousands of poor people from their shanty homes without any form or relocation plan is beyond unjustified. All across the world, poverty stricken families are forced to succumb to the whims of their government. They are forced around like monopoly pieces for the sake of "urban development" and it is difficult to truly understand their struggles with life.

"Maybe because evictions are so common and the lives of the poor so alien to the better-off members of society, we have forgotten how huge a tragedy evictions are. It is traumatic for children to see men tear down their homes and to see their mothers knocked to the ground by water cannons...Women grieve as they see the homes, where they had their children, torn down as if they were junk. The men lose work days; there is more sickness requiring medicine. Distant relocation often means the loss of a job or separation from one’s family for long periods of time. They borrow money to see them through the hard times that is hard to repay. Poor women as well as well-off women feel their house is an extension of themselves—as a man feels his professional work is part of himself—so to see their houses torn down is extremely painful."

A home is a home. Whether held together by rubble or by tape. A home signifies a person's ability to provide, a person's connection to what is real and tangible in society. It is a means to sustain livelihood and a symbol of dignity. To see women, men, and children torn by such savagery is difficult to stomach. However, it is not uncommon here.

I realize how strong many Filipinos are, particularly the destitute ones. Struck by a multitude of financial, legal, medical, and personal problems, they continue to survive. Those affected by the demolition last week will most likely cry and mourn for their loss then pick up their things once again to start anew. Their strength is beyond me and it is because of them that I continue to be inspired.

Op-Ed Submission: Response to the Church's Condom Ban

A Filipino Youth Perspective: Why Stop The Free Condoms?

 

On Valentine’s Day, the Philippines’ Department of Health (DOH) distributed free condoms to address the current HIV/AIDS issue in the Philippines. The following day, the news reported that the Catholic Church had condemned the DOH on their condom campaign because they believe “the availability of condoms promotes sexual licentiousness amongst Filipino youth.” The ridiculousness of that phrase is very upsetting.

Conservative religious groups hold so much power over which policies are made in regards to women’s health in the Philippines. Current women’s health policies do not solve realistic problems. Instead, they only cater to conservative ideologies that a majority of people may not adhere to but are forced to abide by. After the Catholic Church’s condemnation of DOH’s condom campaign, they proceeded to create such uproar on public condom ads and demanded that they all be banned. In doing so, the Catholic Church attempted to infringe on our right to educate ourselves and ALSO our freedom of speech. Where does it stop?

On March 8, the world will be celebrating International Woman’s Day. It is a day that recognizes gender equality and condemns violence against women. However, sometimes the gravest violations of women’s rights do not have to be so blatant and massive. It can be subtle and silent.

Women in the Philippines are stigmatized for being HIV positive. Young women are judged when they buy condoms from the stores. They are not given proper education on how to plan their families or to prevent sexually transmitted illnesses.

The Philippines may be taking a step forward in addressing the current HIV/AIDS issue but due to the ever increasing power of conservative policymakers, the Philippines is also taking two steps back. Any chance for progress in women’s health or controlling the rise in HIV/AIDS rates sadly disappears.

Distributing free condoms only on Valentine’s Day is not enough. A comprehensive and continual campaign for educating people on safe sex should be present, which should include free access to contraceptives. For conservative groups to say condom campaigns encourage licentiousness is unfair because it does not exactly tackle the reality of the problem, which are people are having unprotected sex NOW.

Realistically speaking, demanding that people abstain from sex cannot really happen. Regardless of what conservative groups may believe, people will make their own choices. The best thing governments and institutions can do is educate people so they can make the right choice for themselves, which means campaigning on abstinence, being faithful in relationships, AND condom use (ABC) equally.
For the HIV/AIDS issue in the Philippines to finally get some media attention now is ridiculous. It is an issue that DESERVES to be at the forefront all the time. It is unfair to prevent young people from educating themselves and others on safe sex. Most of all, it is unfair to create health policies that do not address the real problems in our society. All of the progress the Philippine has made to modernize and become a developed country will not matter if people are not equipped with tools to make the right decisions about their health.

Op-Ed Submission: Promiscuity an ailment of society? Or just a one-dimensional excuse?

Promiscuity an Ailment-Condoms no cure for it

Promiscuity an ailment of society? Or just a one-dimensional excuse?

This opinion piece is in response to Ms. Rodriguez’s article, “Promiscuity an ailment; condoms no cure for it.” Promiscuity is NOT a mental illness. In fact to say so is to label more than half the population in the Philippines as “Mentally Ill.” To say so would be a call to institutionalize more than half of the population in Africa ravaged by HIV/AIDS.


People, who choose to have more than one partner, do so by choice. It is a lifestyle that does not only cater to men, but also women. Either gender can make a lifestyle choice that suite their tastes, but it is not grounds to call them mentally ill.
The second group of people who have more than one sexual partner are those who may not see a choice in the matter (e.g. prostitutes and trafficked victims). Whether by choice, due to economic strain, poverty, or homelessness they were placed into such a situation, we have no right to judge. However, they are entitled to protect their own health and sexual well-being too. To say that they do not deserve to be educated or given proper access to contraceptives, simply because they need psychiatric help instead, is borderline abuse on their human rights.

It can thus be concluded that the concept of sexuality varies in society. It can be seen as an expression of love between a man and a woman. It can be seen as a means to financial ends. It can be seen as a personal lifestyle choice. Sexuality can also be objectified, personified, and subjectified to fit society’s needs and choices. Whatever the reason is should not entitle others to categorize people who may have had more than one sexual partner as mentally ill. Doing so will not cure HIV/AIDS, sexually transmitted illnesses, prevent unsafe abortion, or unintended pregnancy, when in fact it could exacerbate it to a point where people will not want to report their STIs in fear of being institutionalized and stigmatized by people in society.
“Therapy” will not make condoms unnecessary. Unfortunately, that is not how society works. People will make their own choices about their bodies, whether influenced by the media, economic incentives, or by their friends. There are external forces that are at play here that many of us cannot control, particularly if it involves the personal lives and choices of others. However, educating people, instead of institutionalizing them, about ways to protect themselves is something that can be done: Abstinence, Be Faithful, and Condom use are the basic ABCs to reproductive health and responsible relationships. Each approach should be implemented and adhered to equally; not just the former.

Simply by saying “using therapy as a means to cut down on condom use and prevent promiscuity” is a one-dimensional solution that does not address the current realities of people’s lives.

Migration Crazyness

I recently started volunteering with an Philippines based NGO called Migrante International as a policy researcher. Their work on a grassroots level to influence the Philippines’ foreign policies on Migration. Two news clips came up recently regarding Filipino citizens on death row overseas and Filipino citizens who are still stranded in deportation centers. I’m happy to see that Migrante International was cited in the media as the leaders in the movement. 

Even though the media portrays Migrante International as strong and popularly supported NGO, the truth is quite the opposite. In fact, when I met with the E.D. of Migrante International and visited their office, I was surprised at their humble work place. Essentially, they work in very non-formal conditions. Most of their workers are volunteers, mostly previous overseas workers who had experienced some form of employment and deportation difficulties. Their office was not situated in the rich business districts of Makati or Taguig, instead they operated in a house located in the heart of Metro Manila, where sari-sari stores and jeepneys thrived in and along the streets. Computers were limited and instead of a proper cooling system fans were blasting to chase the heat away.

I asked Ms. RIna, Migrante’s E.D., how the organization sustains itself financially and she said that most of the money they receive comes from selling t-shirts and paraphernalia related to the cause of their NGO. They do not qualify for international or government funding simply because they are already blacklisted by the government as a “communist group.” This is due to their overly critical stance of the government’s migration foreign policies. Not to mention, they are also very capable of organizing mass rallies and protests for migrant rights.

In the end, I can understand why their overly critical position of the government and strong grassroots advocacy can be a considered a national threat. Since export migration is one of the biggest industries in the Philippines, having someone threaten that economic force can be disarming for future economic policies. 

Regardless of the lack of support, Migrante has sustained itself and has been fighting for migrant rights overseas, even to the point of advocating to bring the dead bodies of Filipino workers back to the Philippines before Christmas so their families can properly bury their loved ones.

I think they are a perfect example of how passion overcomes adversity. Even though they have no money to adequately pay for their staff, they still prosper because they are driven by their passion for justice and the desire to continually challenge a system that has already been proven too difficult to change.

Fast Food Turns Gourmet

Being a Fatty at Krispy Kreme

When I went to Georgetown, I'd often make quick runs to Krispy Kreme in Dupont Circle to indulge in some not-so-good-for-you food that only college students can appreciate and AFFORD.

Imagine my surprise when I saw a Krispy Kreme establishment here in the Philippines. For once, I got an opportunity to satisfy my craving for those delicious glazed doughnuts that represents all aspects of obese society in America. I strolled up in line and asked for three deliciously glazed doughnuts. The worker at the counter kindly asked me if I wanted it to go or for dine in. I couldn't wait to start munching, so I excitedly said DINE IN! Expecting my bag of doughnuts to be handed to me on the spot, the cashier said they would serve it to me instead.

I paused for a moment, wondering why.. but thoughts of delicious doughnuts curbed my curiosity and I took a seat in the nice comfy chairs that they provided to patrons.

"This is fancy," I thought to myself.

On the corner of my eye, I see the cashier casually stroll up to me with my doughnuts. Except, they were not in a bag nor a box. Instead, each of my three doughnuts were neatly placed on three small individual plates in front of me.  Surprised, I looked at the cashier for answers then at the doughnuts in front of me.

I wanted to say, "You could have saved your dishwashing time by just giving the doughnuts to me in a bag."

However, I bit my tongue and automatically shrank into my chair as people stared at me and all the doughnuts in front of me...most likely thinking I was the biggest fatty in the world.

I sighed with relief when the lady kindly excused herself. Before I could pick a doughnut to munch on, she returned. Except this time she came armed with a fork, knife, and spoon. She neatly placed the utensils at the side of my table.

I looked at the supposed gourmet meal in front of me then back at her. She asked if there was anything else I needed.

I awkwardly replied, "No thankyou."

Three plates, three doughnuts, and a knife, spoon, and fork. Once again, I felt like such a fat ass for even contemplating the act of eating doughnuts with my hands and stuffing the whole thing in my mouth. God forbid..right?

For the first time in my life, I ate a doughnut with a knife and fork. I smiled awkwardly at the people around me and hoped they won't remember me as the girl who ordered three doughnuts for herself.

All the while I thought to myself, "when did Krispy Kreme doughnuts turn into gourmet dessert?"

Hot Media Picks November 7, 2009

Abducted Filipino Seafarers 

http://www.gmanews.tv/story/176413/16-rp-seamen-abducted-by-somali-pirates-in-one-week

Today, there are a total of 16 Filipino seafarers abducted by Somali pirates within the span of one week, leaving the total Filipino hostage abroad to 38. Somali has no central government. Without a government to deal with, the Philippines government is hesitant to conduct any form of negotiations. In essence, they won't and can't do anything about it. I foresee another episode of OFW drama. Except, this one doesn't seem to be played out on the media, EVEN THOUGH IT SHOULD! Hello? Our countrymen are being held against their will by Somali pirates? If no one will save them, especially their own government (who sent them out in the first place), THEN WHO WILL?

I recommend they take action like how the U.S. did in April, when one American was held hostage by Somali pirates. They sent in their snipers. NOW that is what I call efficient.

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/04/13/world/africa/13pirates.html


Assurance of Clean 2010 elections in the Philippines?

http://www.gmanews.tv/story/176485/arroyo-to-assure-hillary-of-clean-2010-polls-during-rp-visit

President Arroyo is "contemplating" the idea of running as a VP in the 2010 elections. Do I smell tyrannical dictator? or power hungry politician in the air? I hope Hilary manages to get a good whiff of the political air when she gets here. I smell trouble.

Convicted Rapist to Seek Pardon...AND THEN Will Run For Elections?

http://newsinfo.inquirer.net/breakingnews/nation/view/20091105-234419/Freed-child-rapist-files-plea-for-absolute-pardon

LAST but not least. My favorite news article of the week. A convicted rapist and former Zamboanga del Norte Representative, Romeo Jalosjos, is seeking an absolute pardon from President Arroyo in order to run in politics once again.


"The President would be well within her power to grant a prisoner absolute pardon without seeking the opinion of the Board of Pardons and Parole (BPP), as what she did when she pardoned former president Joseph Estrada who was convicted of plunder, explained a BPP official who asked not to be named for not being authorized to speak to the media on these matters."


Jalosjos claims, if he can win two political elections, while in prison, imagine how much he could politically gain when he's out. Scary thought isn't it? A convicted rapist as a politician...ha! What a perfect combo. 

Abe is BOMB

Last week I went to a Filipino restaurant called, "Abe". It was my first time to taste Kapampangan food and I was not disappointed at all. The food was amazing and close to the home-cook style that I grew up with.

Starting from the beginning of my Abe favorites:

Salad:
Paco Fern and Tomato Salad (Paco Fern is a refreshing vegetable that has a more earthy flavor rather than the usual Caesar salad).

Entrees:
Their Pinakbet (a vegetable medley sautéed with shrimp paste) tasted just like the way my mom cooks it and their Kare-Kare (oxtail, beef, and vegetables stewed in a peanut sauce) was something to be reckoned with for its richness in flavor. The beef was soft and the vegetables were infused with the peanut taste I loved. Unsurprisingly, the meal came with an unlimited serving of rice!! The true essence of Filipino culture is the love of eating. Having a hearty plate of rice to compliment good Filipino cuisine is what makes Abe a place I would want to take friends who want to experience the fullness of Filipino cuisine and have huge appetites.

Food Checklist:
Next time I go, I think I want to try their Pastel de Lengua (ox tongue with a crusty pie topping), if I'm brave enough to try it. For dessert, I always have a craving for the bitter and sour, so the Tamarind shake sounds like the real deal!

One of the disadvantages of growing up as a Filipino-American is our Filpino taste pallet. I grew up with Ilocano food all my life and the way we cook simple Filipino dishes are vastly different from how most Filipinos would cook their food. I would find myself saying, "this tastes weird" or "that is not how you should cook it." I soon realized, after living here for the last four months, that there is no specific way of cooking Filipino food. The way Filipinos cook their dishes or incorporate their ingredients are influenced by the province they come from. Hence, typical "pancit" (noodle) dishes can be cooked 50 different ways according to the Philippines' various provincial cultures.

Even though I can safely say I LOVE FILPINO FOOD, there is a large part of my culture I have not thoroughly experienced. The most craziest dish I ever had was balut and grilled chicken intestines and those are simple street foods that most Filipinos here eat on a daily basis. So... experiencing even the simplest cuisines, like adobo or pancit, can be new for me because it can be cooked in so many different ways. Regardless, expanding my Filipino cuisine pallet is something I am determined to do. From the luxurious restaurants of Serendra to the street food in Quiapo, a true understanding of one's culture does not come from simply observing from the outside. Instead, I should delve right in and allow all five senses to feel the true essence of my culture. Even though I have to close my eyes and gulp down half born chickens, I will gladly do it because I am Filipino and I am FEARLESS..or rather food fearless :)